Capezzana is a historic estate in Carmignano, Tuscany, known for its wines deeply connected to the local territory. For the past few years, they have organized a vertical tasting every autumn to highlight the uniqueness and evolution of their wines. Each tasting focuses on a specific wine from their selection. These tastings are highly educational and provide an excellent opportunity to learn more about Capezzana and the history of Tuscan wine.
Last December, they held a vertical tasting of their renowned Vin Santo, showcasing six different vintages. This event unfolded a story of tradition, change, and success through each vintage of Vin Santo.
Vin Santo can be challenging to sell, but it was encouraging to see the optimism surrounding this dessert wine. Capezzana is well-known for its Vin Santo and successfully sells out its limited production. They have surely conducted thorough market research and established strong sales connections. However, what truly sets their Vin Santo apart is its deep-rooted connection to the history and values of Tuscany and the estate itself. This wine embodies the history, symbolism, and significance of the region, as well as its traditions, people, and values. It continually evolves in harmony over time.
There is a significant amount of discussion in the wine industry about the need for change and innovation to revive wine sales. Generally, people, especially younger generations, are drinking less wine, which calls for new strategies to engage consumers. Some argue for a simplification and demystification of wine, while others believe that this approach could reduce wine to just another beverage.
I believe the wine industry needs innovation and a shift in mindset to attract consumers. However, I am not in favor of the complete demystification or undermining of winemaking and its rich history. Instead, I think it’s essential to interpret this knowledge better and find ways to leverage it for the future.
Capezzana, a Historical Winery in Carmignano
Capezzana has a rich history and is regarded as one of the most impressive estates in Carmignano and Tuscany. A historical document, a rental contract, indicates that wine and olive oil have been produced at Capezzana since 804 A.D. Winemaking in the Carmignano area dates back to the Etruscan era when grapes and olives were first cultivated. However, the estate was not owned by the Contini Bonacossi family during that time; they purchased it in the early 20th century.
The Carmignano area was included in the decree by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III in 1716, which legally defined the areas for quality wine production in Tuscany. The Contini Bonacossi family has continually leveraged the rich history of Capezzana and Carmignano while developing a modern and more data-driven approach to winemaking and market acquisition.
Vin Santo di Carmignano, a Wine in Step with Time
Historical references to a sweet wine reminiscent of Vin Santo can be traced back to ancient times, likely originating from the Etruscan era. Different legends about Vin Santo’s history emerged later. One such legend suggests that the wine has its roots in the Middle Ages, specifically the 14th century, when a Dominican monk is believed to have used a similar sweet wine to help alleviate the suffering of those affected by the plague.
The name “Santo” is thought to have originated from a couple of hypotheses. One theory suggests that during the 15th century, under Pope Eugenio IV, Cardinal Bessarione, the Bishop of Nicea, exclaimed “Hoc Xanthos est!” regarding a sweet wine served at a banquet hosted by the Medici family during an ecumenical council meeting. It remains unclear whether this wine was compared to a Xantos passito from Santorini, Greece, due to its light color or flavor. However, attendees at the banquet interpreted the term “Xantos” as referring to a wine considered “Sanctus” or sacred, which ultimately led to its association with the name “Santo.”
Another hypothesis suggests that the name “Santo” derives from its production for Christian religious holidays.
The Vertical Tasting of Vin Santo
We tasted six vintages of Vin Santo – 1985, 1996, 2001, 2007, 2013, and 2017 – that can be divided into three phases or styles. The various phases also reflect the trends in the periods they were/are produced. The Vin Santo di Carmignano can be produced with Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia bianca lunga alone or combined to a minimum of 75%, while the other 25% can be local white grapes. The Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC Riserva of Capezzana is made with Trebbiano Toscano and San Colombano. The grapes are generally dried until January or early February. The must then does fermentation and maturation in small barrels – caratelli – for at least five years.
Phase 1 – 1985 & 1996
These two vintages were still vinified as white wine, that is the fermentation was done in steel vats for 2 months before the must was transferred to the caratelli. Benedetta Contini Bonacossi, the sibling in charge of the Vin Santo making, says that the 1985 vintage is a wine all in its own category. She argues that it was a question of style to do the fermentation outside of the caratelli. The 1985 vintage was amazing with good freshness for its age and notes of honey, maquis, medicinal herbs, spices such as cinnamon, dried fruit, panforte, almond, a smoky touch, and more. Combined with its tannins, grip, and an unforgettable experience to sip on this Vin Santo. The 1996 was better on the palate than on the nose with hints of volatile alcohol, but still, a good Vin Santo.
Phase 2 – 2001 & 2007
Around 2000, Benedetta moved the Vinsantaia, adding more caratelli and a higher number of new ones with new wood. The caratelli are made of chestnut, and they have chosen this type of wood because Montalbano, a nearby area, is known for its chestnut trees. Benedetta explains that it takes about 20 years for the chestnut to mellow in intensity, becoming “good,” and imparting a bitter note of almond, which gives structure to the wine.
During this period, they began fermenting and aging Vin Santo in caratelli, leading to a significant change in style for the 2001 and 2007 vintages. These vintages display a darker color, denser texture, and a more pronounced wood influence, especially in the 2001 vintage. In contrast, the 2007 vintage shows less wood effect. The grapes for the 2007 vintage were very healthy and dried from late September until early February.
Fellow sommelier and writer Paolo Baracchino noted that the 2007 exhibits hints of barley and panforte, a traditional Siena cake. Additional notes include honey, medicinal herbs, a floral element, dried fruit, figs, and a caramelized quality. Figs are a consistent feature across most Vin Santo vintages, according to Benedetta. Furthermore, the wine presents a fresh yet warm flavor, with a subtle smokiness likely derived from the chestnut wood used in aging.
Phase 3 – 2013 and 2017
The two vintages we tasted in this third phase showed greater similarity with the 1985 and 1996 vintages, displaying a more distinct acidity again. The 2013 and 2017 are slimmer and have a more contemporary style. Discussing a contemporary style may not be accurate; instead, we could say it has picked up on features of the Vin Santo from the 1980s and 1990s. Let’s say that a fresher, slimmer, and elegant Vin Santo has emerged again after 2010. This could be a result of the chestnut wood becoming seasoned and less intense, letting the varietal and inner character of the Vin Santo come out.
The fruity notes are fresher in the 2013 and 2017 vintages as they are younger, still, they show typical notes of figs and almonds. They also have notes of honey, herbs, a hint of resin, panettone, and a round yet fine taste.
Is there Magic in the Vin Santo di Capezzana?
Why do I ask this?
Well, Benedetta mentioned that she sometimes considers herself a bit pazza because she is so dedicated to making Vin Santo. If she could, she would likely sleep—perhaps she has on occasion—in the Vinsantaia to ensure that the conditions remain optimal for the aging of Vin Santo.
Benedetta shared with us a memorable tasting experience her team had a few years ago, to select the best caratelli for the Vin Santo vintage in question, which was either from 2011 or 2013—I can’t recall the exact year. Unfortunately, Benedetta was unable to participate in the tasting due to a health issue at that time and relied on her son Ettare’s opinions instead.
At one point, a butterfly flew in through the window and settled on the neck of a sample bottle. Benedetta later discovered that this was the bottle chosen by the team as the best one. Therefore, Benedetta believes that magic does exist.
My favorite vintages at the vertical Vin Santo tasting were 1985 and 2017, even though 2007 was also particular with its darker and denser style.
- 1985 – I liked it for its unique and outstanding character. Its style in between a white vinification and Vin Santo.
- 2017 – For its freshness and slim, contemporary style, reminding of their Vin Santo from 1985 and 1996.
Have you tasted the Vin Santo di Carmignano from Capezzana?
