The Viticoltori Montespertoli (the Montespertoli Vintners) was founded in 2022 by 15 vintners in the Montespertoli area to change the discourse and produce authentic, terroir-driven, and contemporary wines. On their website, they say that what unites them is “their pride and passion” for what they do and, while doing so, to safeguard the tradition of a “territory always suited to viticulture of quality.” From the very beginning, they characterized their work as a revolution—albeit a peaceful one—to change the perception of winemaking in Montespertoli from high volume and low prices to a focus on quality and value.
The Viticoltori Montespertoli strives to concentrate on organic viticulture and sustainability, and only grow and use their own grapes for winemaking. This is a key concept considering that Montespertoli is the largest producer of Chianti DOCG wine in Tuscany. Historically, the region has been characterized by large producers primarily focused on bulk wine or selling grapes or must to other wineries. Collaboration and dialogue are, moreover, essential for all of the Montespertoli Vintners to promote the territory together.
I attended the event in 2023 but this year I only went to the press dinner at the Podere dell’Anselmo winery of my friend Fabrizio Forconi. Fabrizio is one of the founding vintners of Viticoltori Montespertoli, and he usually organizes a dinner the evening before the event day for journalists and wine writers to hang out and taste the producers’ wines of different vintages in a laid-back manner. This year, I was glad to be there to feel a part of the wine community still, even if I am on a break due to health reasons.
Towards A Reimagined Destination for Viticoltori Montespertoli
At the event last year, in 2023, the Italian wine writer Giampaolo Gravina, who was the invited speaker, talked about a rupture with the past (a parallel can be drawn to the French Revolution) to arrive at a new reimagined destiny (destino) or destination for the Montespertoli Vintners. The term “new” could be associated with the French Revolution, referring to the reappropriation of symbols and traditions from the Old Regime, infusing them with new meaning.
Likewise, the change in discourse among the Montespertoli Vintners suggests a reassessment of tradition, emphasizing low-yield farming practices while incorporating a sense of authenticity and ethical significance. They try to break with a recent past – the post-WWII period – to distance themselves from a wine production focused on quantity to charge towards a new arrival. The arrival is a long-term strategy, as change is always hard. The “new” arrival also goes back in time to when grape growing and winemaking were less commercial and more on the farmer’s level.
This year, the theme was “The revolution… of the climate. A conversation on climate change and its impact on the wine of the future” with the local Italian speakers Paolo De Cristofaro, wine writer, Marco Moriondo, agro-meteorologist, and Giacomo Buscioni, technical scientist at FoodMicroTeam (FMT). (See more in the article “Stappa Montespertoli!”, un’occasione di festa ma soprattutto di dialogo e confronto” by Fosca Tortorelli.)
It is nice and refreshing to see the collaborative approach born from the association of vintners, even if it is not easy for them to stand out and make their voices heard. This is among the economic interests and power of the larger producers and bottling companies in the Montespertoli area. At the dinner this year, one of the vintner members told me that they had hoped that some of the larger producers would have started to show interest in their efforts toward a more ethical and sustainable production, but that so far it has not been the case.
I believe the Montespertoli Vintners should continue on their own path to achieve their long-term goals. Sure, it is not easy. However, it is encouraging to see the younger generation at work with a more collaborative spirit such as Giulio Tinacci from Montalbino winery (the current President of the Montespertoli Vintners), Lorenzo Bagnoli from Fattoria La Leccia, Leone de Renzis Sonnino from Castello Sonnino, and others such as Podere dell’Anselmo and Podere Ghisone, to name a few.
Tasting Viticoltori Montespertoli
At this year’s dinner at Podere dell’Anselmo, it was thrilling to sample another vintage from various producers in Montespertoli. Most of the wines were fresh, fruit-forward, herbal, and often had notes of violet, truly reflecting the Sangiovese spirit. The contemporary style they are striving for is reflected in many of the wines, which showcase a fresh, slim, more elegant character and good drinkability. Here, I think of wines such as
- Montalbino Rosso IGT 2022 of Montalbino winery is very linear and structured, yet with a laidback approach. It is a blend of Fogliatonda, Canaiolo, and a smaller addition of Sangiovese and Colorino.
- Chianti Montespertoli DOCG 2022 of Podere dell’Anselmo has clear Sangiovese Chianti DOCG traits. It is a wine that is enjoyable to drink, and the bottle disappears in good company before you know it.
- Senza Rosso Toscana IGT 2023 of Podere Ghisone is a monovarietal Sangiovese wine with clean, varietal Sangiovese notes and smooth tannins. They have done wild fermentation, just as in the other two wines above, and only matured it in steel.
- Chianti Superiore DOCG 2023 of Fattoria La Leccia has the typical Sangiovese traits of Montespertoli. It is still young with the oak being perceivable, but with time I am sure it will even out.
- Il Guido Chianti Superiore DOCG 2022 of Tenuta Barbadoro has as good vibes as the owners Alessio and David Gallerini. It is a historic estate that has grown grapes and produced wine for five generations, making classic Chianti Montespertoli wines. A good structure and balanced tannins, very enjoyable.
A minor native grape of Tuscany
Primo Marzo IGT Toscana 2023 of Fattoria Bonsalto is made with Boggione, a native grape of Tuscany that has been reevaluated recently. The local farmers used to call it “inganna cane” (dog deceiver) and Maurizio Tramacere Falco, the owner of Fattoria Bonsalto, told me they have researched the grape in collaboration with the university. It does the fermentation in open wooden vats and 10 months of maturation in cocciopesto. It gives the wine a special character with vegetal, herbal notes, and red and darker fruits, including blueberry. The tannins are non-invasive. The wine has something special.
This was my first time tasting a 100% Boggione wine; it is always fascinating to discover new grape varieties and wines.
