I am standing in an Oseleta vineyard wrapped in beautiful autumn colors somewhere in Veneto, not far from Lake Garda, looking at the recently harvested vines. I am snapping photos together with fellow wine peeps, hoping to get to taste the monovarietal Oseleta wine. I am excited.
This was me some years back.
I was “hooked on a feeling”…
…a feeling about the Oseleta grape. 🙂
It is a grape variety that deserves to be part of the wine narrative.
Earlier this spring, I discovered another Oseleta wine – Cercastelle IGT Veronese – not monovarietal but blended with Merlot. It is produced by Davide Gaeta and Raffaela Veroli, owners of Eleva winery in Sant’Ambrogio in Valpolicella. I had the pleasure of being invited by Davide Gaeta to a party he hosted at his winery during Vinitaly. I went there together with David Racicot from the Barrel Hunter Club.
Last weekend, they organized a mini-vertical tasting of Cercastelle IGT Veronese, but I couldn’t attend. The vintages were 2020, 2021, and 2022.
Davide Gaeta and Raffaela Veroli tell the story of how they 9 years ago wanted to do something with the Merlot plot they have, but as it lacks a bit in structure they wanted to find a grape variety to blend with. They found it in the local Oseleta grape.
What is Oseleta you might ask yourself.
Oseleta is a native grape of Veneto, especially in the area of Valpolicella. It was a bit on the sidelines for many years because of its lower yield and small berries. The name Oseleta supposedly comes from “Osei” which means bird in the local dialect alluding to the fact that birds like the small Oseleta berries. In recent years, it has been re-evaluated and some wine producers now make monovarietal wines.
The distinct tannins and the particular flavor traits of Oseleta make it a grape suitable to give support to Amarone and other Valpolicella wines. It is often a small percentage of Amarone and Valpolicella wines without any specific mention. It gives the wines a regional character instead of using the international varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Even a few percentages of Oseleta are very recognizable in a wine with its trademark tannins, red and darker fruity features, herbal, spicy, and floral (violet) notes, freshness, and long length.
Oseleta is a the center of a tasting at Eleva Winery in Valpolicella
At Eleva Winery, they describe their Cercastelle IGT Veronese as
“…a modern, fresh, fruity wine with hints of sweet spices, very elegant and persistent, but not demanding: the alcohol content does not reach 14 degrees…”
Regarding the vintages, the verdict is that Cercastelle IGT Veronese 2020 is less powerful than 2021, fresh, with herbal notes, and overall elegant. The 2021 has a lovely freshness and well-integrated tannins.
Eleva is an organic winery located beautifully on a hill with a view of the valley and Lake Garda in the far background. The vineyards surround the winery building built in and around a natural cave. Aside from Cercastelle, they primarily produce Amarone and Valpolicella DOC wines.
Professor Davide Gaeta and his business partner, Raffaela Veroli, have formed a dynamic team. They both believe in collaborating with younger consultant oenologists to teach and learn, enhancing the overall winemaking process.
Why do I write about a tasting that I did not attend?
Well, I would liked to have been at the tasting. In this period, it was not possible though. I still like to be able to spread the word about Eleva winery and its, people, and its wines, it is a lovely spot in Valpolicella.
Nevertheless, I believe that a native grape like Oseleta has a significant story to tell and deserves to be included in the wine narrative, as previously mentioned. It can be another way of communicating the Valpolicella territory, beyond Amarone.
An Oseleta wine could be interesting for new or different consumers, and appeal to younger generations, and people looking for different wine experiences. Isn’t luxury in the metamodern era more about unique and rare experiences rather than expensive wines that have now become more mainstream?
Have you ever tasted an Oseleta wine?
I have not tasted Oseleta, but you have piqued my interest. Is there a wine store somewhere on the East Coast of the U.S. that might sell it or would I need to purchase from Italy? While I write primarily about New Jersey wines and wineries, I am always interested in trying something new.
Glad you are back writing and doing what you do so well, Katarina.
David Mullen
Hi David, thank you for your comment. How are you? Regarding monovarietal Oseleta wines, I know Vigneti Villabella produce the Rosso Veronese IGT Oseleta – Villa Cordevigo and Zýme makes Provincia di Verona Oseleta IGT, then Masi makes a wine that is a blend with Oseleta. not suree which wines are available in the US.