This episode of the WinesOfItaly Show was a collaboration with Susannah Gold and our Substack project All That Wine. Susanna and I explore a lesser-known wine region in Veneto: the Valle d’Agno, northwest of Vicenza. Our guest, Massimo Dal Lago, co-founder of Masari Winery, guides us into the heart of this valley, where volcanic soils blend with ancient marine sediments, and local and international grapes showcase an unexpected mountain finesse.
Masari, founded in 1998 by Massimo and his wife Arianna, is a first-generation, organically certified estate with vineyards at elevations of 300 and 550 meters. The winery’s philosophy is rooted in biodiversity, minimal intervention, and deep respect for the valley’s natural rhythm.
Two Soils, Two Characteristics
One of the most fascinating parts of the discussion is the sharp contrast between the valley’s two sides:
Volcanic Soils
The volcanic soil on the right side of the valley is uniquely suited for growing Durella and Riesling Renano. This mix of basalt, tufo, and a rich vegetal layer contributes to the high acidity, vibrant energy, and mineral character that define these wines. Massimo’s Metodo Classico Durello Pas Dosé, aged 42 months on the lees, expresses this perfectly.
Calcareous–Clay Soils
Rich, fossil-studded marine soils that are over 60 million years old support the growth of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir. In this environment, the wines develop concentration, fine tannins, and a refreshing alpine acidity. This terroir naturally aligns with the style advocated by the Grandi Vitigni Veneti project, of which Masari is a part.
Durella
This resilient native grape ripens late, retains natural acidity, and flourishes in cool climates—ideal for Metodo Classico. When combined with Riesling in Agno Bianco, it contributes additional aromatics and structure.
Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot in the Valle d’Agno
The discussion also touches upon why international grapes are so deeply rooted in Veneto. Over 200 years ago, historic cultural exchanges and noble families helped Bordeaux varieties become an integral part of the region’s identity.
A Fresh-Climate Advantage
Climate change is driving more growers to higher altitudes. Valle d’Agno’s cool nights and mountain breezes contribute to naturally balanced ripeness, which is attracting new investors to the area.
Wines that are pure storytelling…
Massimo highlights two limited-production wines from special sub-parcels on calcareous soils:
- Montepulgo – pure Merlot, structured and elegant
- Astro – pure Cabernet Sauvignon, produced only in exceptional vintages
Both reflect Masari’s precision, low yields, and commitment to letting the soil speak for itself.
The episode highlights
00:01 – Introducing Masari and the Valle d’Agno
06:10 – Durella: a mountain native
12:45 – Volcanic vs. calcareous soils
19:30 – Organic farming & biodiversity
27:20 – History, borders, and cultural exchanges
36:15 – The Grandi Vitigni Veneti project
47:55 – Climate change & altitude
55:40 – Food pairings and local dishes
Have you tasted Masari’s or any other similar Veneto wines made with French grapes in a French style? Please share your thoughts.
