In June, I returned to Puglia after a year to see friends, explore the current wine scene, and taste the latest vintages of wines from the southern Italian regions. I started in San Severo, where I visited my friends at D’Araprì winery, whom I had not visited for some years. I got to spend some time with Anna, Maria Antonietta, Girolamo, Louis, Daniele, and Antonio, part of the “older” founding and the second generation at D’Araprì winery. I then joined the press tour of the yearly Radici del Sud event and continued to Gioia del Colle for the usual wine competition the following days. The wines of southern Italy have always been close to my heart: the lesser-known areas (that are slowly becoming more known), the local grapes, the people, and the southern atmosphere.
When I go to Puglia, I always discover something new, whether a new producer or a development in the expression of the territory. I also get a glimpse into the latest changes or news. In this context, I will focus more on the northern part of Puglia, such as Daunia or Capitanata, which comprises the province of Foggia and the Bari-Andria-Trani area, including Castel del Monte. Northern Puglia is an area with lots of history, nature and landscapes of extraordinary beauty, a bit wilder and more fascinating than in the picture-perfect photos from Alberobello or Monopoli.
Often, Puglia makes us think about the beaches and crystalline water in Salento, the olive trees, trulli, and luxury masserie (farmhouses) in Valle d’Itria, the white architecture in Ostuni, or the pasta-making ladies in the old town of Bari. The Daunia area, on the other hand, invites you to slow down and soak up nature and traditions, with the Daunia mountains, deep forests, the Tavoliere farming land, and quaint medieval hamlets and towns. Ascoli Satriano, Orsara, Troia, and Lucera are just a few examples.
It is an area perfect for hiking, retreats, or just relaxing and slowing down. I would organise a retreat with a focus on nature, food, and wine there in no time; write to me if you would be interested!
It might not be as easy to find high-end resorts or accommodations in the area as it is in Valle d’Itria or in Salento, but there are many cute B&Bs, boutique hotels, and agritourism. And, in my opinion, you have an authentic, genuine experience through and through, with wonderful people, the chance to really experience local daily life, and a combination of mountains, seaside, nature, food, and wine. It is a way to slow down and listen to the world around you.
Anyway, let’s get back to talking about wine in Puglia.
D’Araprì winery is a benchmark when it comes to Champenoise method sparkling wines made with native grapes in Puglia. Their story started in the late 1970s when Louis, Girolamo, and Ulrico had a jazz band together; during jam sessions, they also started getting into their passion for wine, especially sparkling wine. Read more about their story in my article Sparkling Wine All Through the Christmas Dinner with D’Araprì Winery. It is now the second generation – Anna, Daniele, and Antonio – at the helm of the winery.
What I like about D’Araprì is that they always have a clear perspective on things and stay current in their objectives. Of course, I also like their Champenoise method wines made with mainly local grapes such as Bombino bianco, Nero di Troia, and Montepulciano, as well as Pinot Noir.
In the wine world today, filled with economic and geopolitical uncertainties and a change in consumer habits, there is also a shift in marketing and sales patterns and a focus on building trust and consumer loyalty. Anna, in fact, told me that they are more into building long-term relationships and trust with buyers and consumers, even if in smaller quantities, rather than betting on big orders that might be less frequent. DTC is another model they are interested in developing.
In today’s fragmented world, where people are looking for brand authenticity, ethics, sustainability, and trust, I think it is essential to have a long-term strategy rather than hoping for quick wins.
Capitanata Spumante Metodo Classico Association
D’Araprì winery has been fundamental in forming the Capitanata Spumante Metodo Classico Association with 7 other small artisanal producers from the area making Champenoise method sparkling wines. The association was officially launched early last year, 2025.
The wineries based in San Severo, like D’Araprì and Almagaia, have catacomb-like underground cellars where they age and store the sparkling wines. The cellars are a part of the cultural heritage in San Severo; in the past, most families had their own cellar where they made their own wine for household use.
The focus of the association is currently mainly on Bombino bianco and Nero di Troia metodo classico to give an expression to the local territory. The member wineries are:
- Almagaia
- Simone Saracino
- D’Araprì
- 7 Campanili
- Alberto Longo
- Teanum
- Borgo Turrito
- Re Dauno
We had a tasting of 11 wines selected from the member wineries to understand their work so far. Some of the highlights were:
Simone Saracino, Metodo Classico Bombino Bianco 2023
Simone Saracino is a young vintner who started out in 2022, with the idea of connecting his winemaking to the importance of marble in the local territory. He sees a link between the territory, the vine, and the stone/marble. He compares the winemaking process and organoleptic characteristics of his wines with those of the transformation of ancient stone and marble. He talks about ‘sculpting’ wine just as an artist creates a sculpture out of stone.
His Metodo Classico made with 100% Bombino bianco rests on the lees for 18-24 months before degorgement. It has a nice freshness (as cut in marble, to play a bit with words) with classic notes of toasted bread, followed by herbal and floral notes, and a touch of citrus fruit. It has a nice texture on the palate, elegant, and good length.
Borgo Turrito, Capo Nord Extra Brut, Bombino bianco
I visited Luca Scapola at Borgo Turrito in the Borgo Incoronata locality close to Foggia some years ago. I got a full immersion into his winemaking and got to taste different vintages of all his wines. He is very much focused on the expressions of Nero di Troia in his wine production. Today, he has developed the hospitality and wine tasting side even more. He has also started making metodo classico wines with Bombino bianco and Nero di Troia grapes, thus becoming a part of the Capitanata Spumante Metodo Classico association. Well, I think he probably also made sparkling wines before. Borgo Turrito furthermore takes sustainability seriously and is certified via Equalitas since 2024. Read more about Luca and Borgo Turrito in my previous article: Borgo Turrito Focuses on Nero di Troia in Foggia in Puglia
I really liked his Capo Nord Extra Brut metodo classico made with Bombino bianco for its nice freshness and the sour character on both the nose and the palate, with notes of grapefruit, a citrusy touch, and almost a hint of lychees. The acidity, combined with the slightly salty side, gives it nice structure.
I also enjoyed Luca’s CalaRosa Brut Rosé made with Nero di Troia. The fruity, floral, and spicy traits that are quite typical for Nero di Troia wines come out here with refreshing notes of small red fruit, wild strawberries, red currant, pink grapefruit, rose petals, clove, and maquis. Smooth and graceful on the palate with a nice length.
Almagaia, Pas Dosé, Bombino Bianco, 2022
Almagaia is a small winery that “restarted” fairly recently and is now a collaboration between the original owner Francesco Tafanelli Stoduto and Giandomenico Irmici. They are making metodo classico sparkling wines in true San Severo style; the bottles rest on the lees on pupitre in the cellar in the centre of San Severo. I visited their wine cellar earlier in June this year. This Pas Dosé is fresh and smooth with a certain structure. It has lovely notes of toasted bread, white flowers, herbal with a hint of moss.
D’Araprì, Gran Cuvée XXI Secolo, 2018 and 2012
We tasted two different vintages of the Gran Cuvée XXI Secolo metodo classico from the D’Araprí winery, namely 2018 and 2012. The Gran Cuvée XXI Secolo is a blend of 60% Bombino bianco, 20% Montepulciano, and 20% Pinot Noir. Both vintages are complex, elegant, slightly creamy, and with a nice structure. 2018 has a bit more citrusy notes, while 2012 has notes of a bit darker fruit and candied fruit. There is a smoky or flinty hint in both. 2012 has a great texture and length. I like both a lot, but if I have to choose, I would, in this moment, go for the 2012 vintage.
Have you ever tasted any of the metodo classico sparkling wines from the San Severo area in Puglia? Please share your thoughts.
Continuing the Tour of Puglia Wine…
I then continued with the Radici del Sud press tour and had a deep dive into Nero di Troia. This year, it was wineries I had not visited before. The organic and sustainability-certified Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli and the organic Azienda Agricola Santa Lucia in the Andria area.
Both farms date back to the 16th or 17th century in the area. Spagnoletti has 350 ha in total, of which 150 ha are under vine, all in organic, while Santa Lucia is much smaller, with about 15 ha organically farmed.
Spagnolettis Monte Giannelli (2022) is a beautiful and varietal expression of Nero di Troia, matured for 8 months in big casks and 3 years in steel. This gives a linear wine where the characteristics of Nero di Troia come forth. Fruit, flowers, spices, maquis, and acidity. Smooth tannins. They also make a Nero di Troia Riserva (2018) in a different, more traditional (or, rather, 80s and 90s fashion) style, with ageing in barrique, giving a fuller-bodied wine with tertiary notes. Spagnoletti Zeuli has a masseria where they organise tastings in the little inner courtyard.
Santa Lucia winery started a project with a focus on Nero di Troia in 2000. It was in those years that a couple of wineries decided to make monovarietal Nero di Troia wines in northern Puglia. Their Melograno is a Nero di Troia that matures for one year in big casks, followed by 6 months in cement tanks to smooth out the wine. It is a lovely expression of Nero di Troia.
I preferred Melograno to their Riserva Le More, the latter one being aged one year in barrique and one year in the bottle. Le More is a complex and structured wine. However, the barrique hides the essence of the grape a bit, which is a pity. I understand the idea of making a wine in semi-French style, but I prefer the Melograno for its drinkability and varietal expression.
Which is your favourite Nero di Troia wine?
